The fuselage took about a month, but only due to poor instruction manuals. Each wing, including fuel tank, only takes about 50-60 hours, as the instructions for them are great. The wings are especially easy to do yourself if you have the space. Some ship with wingtips off, but canopy on. Some ship with wingtips on, but no canopy. I'm now about 3.5 months into the build, and I'll say one thing for sure- the quickbuild kits ONLY get the easy stuff out of the way! The hard parts are fine tuning all the control rods, fitting the composite parts perfectly (although depending which quickbuild company you go with, I've seen them do it different ways. I'm building full time, and it took about 2-2.5 months to get the kit to the status of how a quickbuild ships. after this I will have exhausted my adjustability without installing softer springs.that is the next option.Īgain, its not bad, but would like to be able to soften it a little more to get some more weight transfer and make it more bearable for the little bumps.I'd recommend going for the full kit not quickbuild I have a Performance Manual from that genre of sleds from AC and have gone over the rear suspension adjustments options 3 times trying to see what else I could do.and those seem like my only options. As it sits I have about 3" of spring-end past the mount location, if I move the rear arm mount back 1.5" it will make my spring that much longer. I will be riding on more of the end of the spring compared to more of the middle. basically I am going to move the mount back so that I am making the spring longer, since there is so much extra spring after the rail mount it should soften it just a little more. he moved his rear arm mount back an inch and said it made enough difference for him to be comfortable again. The coil over rear spring is really long and alot of extra spring-end is available where the spring end rests on the rail behind the front set of bogie wheels. He's the one that told me to move the rear arm mount location on the chassis. Never expected it and neither did he for it to effect the ride of the sled, seems odd that just stretching the rail could change it that much. I talked with a buddy that stretched his ZR to a 136 with rail extensions and he had the same problem. I have tried softening the front arm and stiffening the front arm, it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I didn't move anything.I just added the rail extensions. rears are 1 1/4" long and grade 8 washers.) this is by the way a 121" trackĥ 1/4" down from bottom of protector to cent of rear hole.įront bolts are all grade 8, 3/8" 16 pitch and are as follows, front 2 1/2" long. i hope this helps anyone thinking of using one of these skids in their apex. i have taken pics and they will be posted shortly. i also had to cut/shape them to clear the extros, but they do slide onto the cat rails and the holes line up for the most part.Īhicks has been a big help in doing this swap. i am running doo extroverts so i had to swap out the cat rail caps for the stock mono rail caps. so the only holes i drilled in my tunnel are the 2 new front holes. i marked and drilled the new plate to the same rivet and bolt holes as the original one. the rear mount will have to be removed and replaced with a 5"x8" piece of 3/16" higher strength aluminum plate. the hole still is on the front plate so no need to change that. Holes are drilled 13/32" drill bit diameter.įront bolts are 2 1/2" long, washers on both sides and lock nut The 2000 and later skids being better as the rails are thicker and reinforced.Īll tunnel measurements are from the BOTTOM of the tunnel protectors, NOT from the tunnel itself.ĩ 3/4" center to center driveshaft to front holeĤ 3/4" down from bottom of protector to center of front holeĢ3 3/4" center to center from front hole to rear holeĥ 1/4" down from bottom of protector to cent of rear hole these measurements are good for the following skids I am doing a ett cat skid swap in my 2006 apex rtx.
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